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Adjustable Blade
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Which setting is long/short?
I've been doing buzz cuts on my own for a while now with a pair of clippers that I've had for a long time after seeing how easy it was.
Since the clippers have been just laying around, it's missing the instructions booklet, so I was wondering which blade setting will give you longest/shortest cuts?
To clarify a bit, I am talking about the adjustable blade thing, where the top blade adjusts either up(distance from the bottom blade) or down(matched up with the bottom blade). All I know is that one cuts shorter than the other.
The reason I ask is because after a completed buzz cut, using a #2, the hair is rounded from side to top, if you know what I mean, and I was wondering if I cut the sides shorter through the adjustable blade, would it make a difference.
Taper clippers cut shorter when the top blade is matched with the bottom blade. Most standard home clippers cut at #1 Guard length=1/8" = 3mm = one week's hair growth left on head with no Guard attached and the taper lever in the long cutting position and at #000 Blade length = 1/50"=0.5mm=one Day's hair growth left on the head with no guard attached and the taper lever in the short cutting position.
Fade clippers cut at #000 Blade length=1/50"=0.5mm=One Day's hair growth left on the head with no Guard attached and the taper lever in the long cutting position and at #00000 Blade length = 1/125" = 0.2mm=10 hour's hair growth left on the head with no Guard attached and the taper lever in the short cutting position.
The average rate of hair growth is 1/8" per week. Guards are numbered in eighth's of an inch. A #1 Guard leaves one week's hair growth on the head. A #2 Guard leaves two week's hair growth on the head. A # 3 Guard leaves three week's hair growth on the head etc. Each Guard number represents a week's difference in hair left on the head. Guards cut at the indicated length when the taper lever of standard taper clippers is in the short cutting position
Essential Barbering Knowledge:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Talk:Crew_cut#Clippers.2C__Blades_and_Guards
A Buzz aka Butch Haircut will look less somewhat less rounded on certain skull shapes if the sides are tapered shorter. The upper sides and the top should be cut the same length. The way to self cut a butch is to first cut the entire back and sides with the same Guard to be used on top. Then either move the taper lever to cut longer or switch to a shorter cutting guard and starting from the edge of the hair line at the right side burn, cut the sides and back again but this time don't go as high up the sides and back of the head. The clipper should be arced out of the hair to have a seamless transition between lengths. Move taper lever again or switch to a shorter cutting guard and repeat. Again don't go as high up the back and sides of the head as the previous pass. The difficult part technically and aesthetically is tapering the edge at the nape to the skin at the correct height given the neck length and chin length and the side burn length. It takes a lot of practice to get a decent looking zero taper at the edge of the nape. The technical aspects of zero tapering are covered in a home Hair Cutting video that is still available called "barber of cape cod." It can probably be found by googling the title. It demonstrates a buzz cut, ivy league called a military cut, flat top, regular taper cut and a few others. But it doesn't cover the aesthetic aspects of designing a neck edge. If the sideburns were not tapered to the skin above the ears, the correct length is determined by the face shape. Short sideburns lengthen a long face and longer sideburns shorten a long face.
After the siding and edging are completed the Top hair is cut at the same guard length as used on the upper sides and back. From front to back.
Sideburns and Height of Neck Edge:
The place the sideburns extend down the ears and the height of the neck edge play a very important role in how a short haircut appears. Sideburns tend to normalize the distance between the corner of the eye and the tip of the chin. Short sideburns can lengthen a short face and long sideburns can shorten a long face. Short sideburns only extend to the place where the ear cartilage attaches to the skull. Medium extend to the top of the ear orifice. Long extend to the middle of the ear opening. Extra long extend to the bottom of the ear opening. A higher neck edge will lengthen a short neck and a lower neck edge will shorten a long neck.
To have a more squared and less round look will usually require graduating the length of the Top hair. Longer at the front hair line and shorter at the back of the crown. In other words a Crew Cut instead of a Butch.
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/2295/haircutposterib3.jpg
The ultimate squared up look would be a Boxy Flat Top Crew Cut. Side View #3 or Side View #4 and Front View #2 on pg 134 at the second link below:
Basic Short Cuts:
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/5779/fpssb1321332m803fef7jc6.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/7628/fpssb1341352m1aef5e4mt9.jpg
S.C. Thorpe, "Practice and Science of Standard Barbering, Completely Revised Edition. pg 132 -135
Butch, #3 on Top, #2 Back and Sides
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/2826/butchclassiclargewt6jq6.jpg
Very Short Crew Cut( Crew Cuts due to the graduation of length on top):
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7061/quanticorugbytl9rf5oh7.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/563/crewcutmarineveryshortmen8.jpg
Butch with a bit of quickly graduated length just before the front hairline aka Butch with a Bumper:
http://img212.imageshack.us/img212/8379/ftruebutchm43f1236ek3zp6.jpg
Crew Cut:
http://img108.imageshack.us/img108/8239/chaucersfavelargerwp8ca5.jpg
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/8744/cdteadie07mn9.jpg
Ivy League( Long Crew Cut aka Standard Crew Cut)
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2631/kidwithacokezerocrewcutdw5.jpg
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/6338/jessemccartneyshirtlesszg8.jpg
http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/2795/70735ed866cf5qa3.jpg
http://www.yalealumnimagazine.com/issues/02_04/old_yale.html
Short Flat Top Crew Cut:
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/3649/mipg1djj9.jpg
Flat Top Crew Cut:
http://img378.imageshack.us/img378/1262/larrymullinjrqz3.jpg
http://img144.imageshack.us/img144/8076/bradyquinnclassicboxyflmw4.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1048/babcockqv9.jpg
Crew Cuts, Ivy Leagues, Flat Top Crew Cuts and Butch Cuts are easily groomed with Krew Comb, a sort of hyrdrogenated or whipped butch wax, or really any control or butch wax. Lucky Tiger Cru-Butch is a traditional butch wax. In the UK Dax is a popular control wax. There are many high end waxes currently being manufactured. Short hair that is shampooed frequently can be stripped of natural oils for a while after shampooing and this can give the appearance of "high voltage hair" like a finger was stuck in an electrical outlet. A control or butch wax when used in extreme moderation acts in the place of the natural oil and brings the hair under control. It does not set up a stiff hold like a gel or mousse. The hair stays soft to touch and can be brushed, combed or tousled as one wishes and then brushed back into place.
The application for all is largely the same.
1)After showering, towel dry hair.
2)Barely dip fingertips in jar.
3)Transfer wax to palms.
4)Smooth palms over hair.
5)Brush bangs back off forehead forming short pompadour front.
Directions on a jar of long discontinued Max Factor Crew Cut Wax:
http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/8079/fmaxfactorcrm6070625ya4xt3.jpg
Krew Comb is available at the national chain, Sally Beauty Supply. Lucky Tiger has a website. getluckytiger.com
Good Luck!
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